Frankfurt

A man is bicycling through the airport.  White snow, dark concrete, grey people. I'm in the Frankfurt airport after an easy leg on Lufthansa from IAD-FRA.  Thanks to the generosity of a former boss, I used a paper systemwide upgrade (SWU in flyertalk parlance) and was upgraded to Business class. It's only the second time i've flown business on an international flight, and it is a superb experience. My review of the product:

 -understated, effective experience. The Lufthansa lounge at Dulles is modest, small, and nothing special. However, being able to wander around Dulles without a bag before my flight is a plus, as is boarding the plane from a separate entrance (this explains why the same flight has two gates assigned to it).

-I sit in 4k, window-seat in the back of the nozzle section. It is like sitting on the front of a ship in a large cushioned lawn chair. I have this feeling of being in the cabin of a Hindenberg-like blimp in the 1920/30's.

-the woman sitting next to me is young and casually attired. She turns out to be a German Au Pair (town of 900 people) who lives in DC and takes care of two children, whose parents are a healthcare lawyer-lobbyist duo. She is polite and undazzled bz the experience. We get along nicely, but there isn't much to talk about. I tell her to visit San Francisco and Cape Cod, and she thinks i'll enjoy Japan.

-Getting a six page illustrated menu with a letter from the executive chef is amazing. International airlines should make this a standard practice, even for economy.  My appetizer is pleasant, my main course is so-so, and my desert is basic. The linen is lovely, the glasses are modern and elegantly logoed with the lufthansa bird, and the attendant brings me the best cognac i've ever tasted. If only I weren't fighting a cold... The bread selection is marvelous, and includes some sort of German pretzel rolls.

-The seat is extremely complex and allows for multiple configurations. It reminds me of doing yoga minus the doing. the blanket is cotton-quilt style. After watching Salt (bizarre cold-war thriller, entirely without context), I get a few hours of sleep.  There is a bar mid-cabin with water and snacks throughout the night, with glitter on the linen. There are holiday wreaths at the front of the plane.

-I wake to a pleasant breakfast with a delicious croissant, some sort of pastramized meat, and cheeses. Fresh squeezed orange juice, too.

-the bathrooms are large, eternally unoccuppied, and have mouthwash and hand lotion. I am tempted to take the Lufthansa paper cups but resist the urge.

-I charge my blackberry using a plug supplied by the flight attendant. When I try to return it, she wishes me a merry christmas and says it is mine to keep.

the whole experience is very solid and pleasant. distinctly german.