Saturday, March 1, 2008

Other Cambodia: The Beach Party without the Beach

The Cambodiana Hotel is Phnom Penh's most expensive hotel, according moto drivers, who quote nightly rates as high as $4000 a night. It's a massive and imposing structure that dominates the riverside, a symbol of power and affluence.

I've only passed the Cambodiana, admiring it from the back of a motorcycle. As an ex-pat NGO worker, i'm somewhere between the "two Cambodias." I spend most of my time working and hanging out with Cambodians without political influence, wealth, and family connections. On the other hand, I sleep in a comfortable guesthouse, often dine at nice restaurants, and can freely interact with foreigners. I'm not chauffeured in a black Lexus SUV (with LEXUS smeared across the sides giant letters) or trademark Mercedes-Benz with darkened windows, but I do take a Tuk-Tuk once in a while (a co-worker once described a Tuk-Tuk as a motorcycle with chariot-welded onto the back. Padded cart is more appropriate, but it's a good image).

The Cambodians I know are either openly resentful or quietly envious of the "other Cambodia." They are also curious. Sharing this wary curiosity, I decided to join some friends in attending a giant "Beach Party" thrown at the Cambodiana.

The party took place in the Hotel's backyard, a large strip of land on the river. Hundreds (maybe thousands) of coiffed, well-dressed Cambodians sat at tables bordering the large dance floor, with a DJ playing pounding American music (almost completely up to date). A handful of foreigners worked the dance floor as I arrived, watched by the seated masses.

Later on, there were performances by a funky American band (with a Congolese guitarist wearing a pinstriped Zoot suit), Khmer dancers, and a troup of live hip-hop dancers.

Multiple floodlights sped through the air, hitting the dance floor and lighting up the evening.

At midnight, there was a raffle, which no one proceeded to win. This was mildly entertaining.

I don't know if I learned anything about Cambodia's elite. They don't seem like big dancers.

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